Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.